All three of our kids have been Waldorf kids since kindergarten and a big part of that Waldorf curriculum is “handwork”.  Handwork includes: knitting, hand sewing, crocheting and woodwork.  This is absolutely, an unofficial rationale of Waldorf handwork pedagogy, but instead what I’ve gleaned from years of parent nights: learning to make things with one’s hands connects the children with confidence to the world around them as they learn how things are made; knitting also encourages hands to “cross midline” which helps prepare the young minds for reading; and, the manual dexterity and pattern recognition fires up all kinds of learning centers and helps to improve handwriting.  Once the kids know what to do, the Waldorf handwork classroom usually looks like kids silently knitting or crocheting while the teacher reads them a story.

 

Two of my three kids LOVE handwork and felt that the biggest downside to this year of travel and road schooling was to miss their regular handwork class for a year.  Aside from knitting and hand sewing, I am clueless.  The idea of being a year-long handwork teacher, makes me sweaty.  How could we pack light and keep this up?  In no way can I reproduce their school’s wonderful curriculum, with purposefully chosen projects for each grade.

family travel, handwork, Waldorf

So we brought three sewing kits that the kids had gotten for Christmas.  They were wonderful gifts, but with our busy lives in Boulder the kits had been pushed to the back of the craft cabinet, waiting for a snow day that never came.  All the materials were neatly packed away to make three plush toys: an owl, a monster and a frog.  At the last minute, I threw them in a suitcase.

 

During our Sherpa homestay we broke them out on a few rainy afternoons and the kids happily got to work and were proud of their personalized creations.  The kids were really excited to give them away.  Everywhere we looked in Nepal, there were local kids with few toys to play with.  Kai had the easiest time and gave it to a guesthouse owners’ young child on the first day.  As far as we could tell, they were very happy with the gift and Kai was happy to see the young child with a “lovie” like the one he slept with each night.  Lorna similarly gave hers away a few days later, happy that she had created something that would make another child happy.  These kids have so few possessions.

family travel, handwork, Waldorf

Constructing the “lovies” took three rainy afternoons

 

Lucy has brought hers all the way to Everest region and back, about six weeks since she created it.  It was harder for her to separate with her creation.  I didn’t want to force her, but I also know that this is part of the lesson.  She has a stuffed bunny who she sleeps with each night and has never been interested in cuddling with her “monster” but it’s also hard to say goodbye to something that she created.  I could easily psychologize about reasons why, but her gifting ended up being the sweetest of all.

handwork, family travel, Waldorf, road schooling

Lorna giving her creation away…

Back in August, our Nepali family’s grandfather was sick and needed to be helicoptered out of the village.  This is the house we stayed in for a week.  Grandfather, eight-five years old, was barely able to come to the kitchen and was moaning in pain.  How do elderly people survive in villages with no roads and no access to healthcare?  Well, they have family that can afford and finagle a helicopter airlift to Kathmandu.  (It would have been extremely difficult to carry him to the road and then it would have been an eight-hour jeep ride! This man needs to lay down.)

Helicopter arriving in Thumbuk. Monsoon clouds make it tough to find.

 

We all waited patiently in Thumbuk for the weather to clear and the helicopter to locate the field by GPS.  I stood in the clearing with a red umbrella and we lit a smoky fire.  Grandfather, Grandmother and Lhakpa flew with him to Kathmandu where he saw a doctor to relieve his pain and got further testing.  Spending time with Grandfather back in Kathmandu a month later, meant the world to the kids. You could tell that Grandfather was feeling better and interacted more with the children.  And watching the mountain helicopter rescue will be a clear memory for years.

 

Lucy gave her lovie to Grandfather just two days before leaving Nepal.  Grandfather took it, smiled and then quickly tucked it under his jacket, close to his heart.  Another reminder that it’s best to let Lucy lead.  And the best reason for us all to learn handwork is to create something of meaning to give.  It can mean so much more than a store-bought token of caring.family travel, handwork, Waldorf

By Lorna Paradise, twelve years old, contributing to her family travel blog.  These are her impressions of Nepal after roadschooling and spending two months in Kathmandu, Solukhumbu and the tropical lowlands.

Nepal is not a very big country. In fact, the state of Colorado is bigger than the country of Nepal. But, Colorado does not feel very big to me, because I’ve driven around a lot of it. But, to me, Nepal feels much bigger, because I’ve walked across a lot of it. And, to walk across it, you have to walk up, up, up, cross a pass, then walk down, down, down. One day we walked over a twelve thousand-foot pass, and slept at four thousand feet. I personally think that’s kind of depressing. You feel so amazing for climbing over this pass, then you sleep lower then you started.  Here is a post about trekking with kids and another about our Sherpa homestays.family travel, Everest, tween blogger

Nepal is an amazing country in a lot of ways:

  • Nepal is sandwiched between two giants, and has been for more than two hundred years. It’s still its own country, somehow, without a stable government.
  • No matter what Nepali people have to give, they give it.
  • On one side of Nepal, you have the Terai at sea level: jungle, tigers, like India. On the other side, at nine thousand feet and up, you have villagers who are extremely lucky to go to school, mountains, yaks, suspension bridges, (I can say a lot more about this area cause I went here.) But these two extremely different places are within two hundred miles of each other.

    Khumjung, travel blog,

    We spent five nights here in Khumjung at 12,000 ft.

  • Somehow the villagers live with no fruit and very little veggies. To the extent that once we get back to Kathmandu, we eat all their fruit, all their fruit juice, and all their veggies.
  • the average Nepali knows 4 languages. 1)their ethnic group language,2) Nepali,3) English,4) Hindi. (For TV.)
  • Somehow doctors are allowed to go on strike.
  • The clothing is so colorful! Who cares about matching?
  • It has a ton of World Heritage Sites!
  •  It has so many cultures within its borders, all of which are celebrated with gusto ( that sounds really dumb, but I don’t know how else to say it)

We travel to China in 5 days. Nepal went by fast!! I loved it here, and now have some weird recommendations. (If you go to Namche Bazaar, stay at Nirvana Home Guest House.)

family travel, Namche, duo

These are dzo’s (a cross between a yak and a cow). They carry the really heavy stuff to the market.

I REALLY miss friends, and things that are anything like home, but I’ve been so busy I haven’t had much time to think about it. My birthday is coming up. I’ll have it in China. Somehow I don’t think it’s gonna be anything like previous birthdays… I got to go paragliding in Pokhara as an early birthday present! That was awesome! Ive never had a birthday present quite like that before.

I’m ready to travel to China, and exited to see Kai and Lucy’s reaction to the fish market that neither of them remembers. You can also read about my first impressions of Nepal.

tween blogger, family travel, Nepal

This monkey grabbed my drink right out of my hands and then bit a hole into the bottom to drink it!

When we pulled into Nirvana Home guesthouse in Namche Bazaar, I was most excited for a hot shower, a latte and some wifi.  But the true gem of our time in Namche was spending time with the presiding grandfather of the guesthouse, the Kancha Sherpa.  Truth be told, we had no concrete plans about places to stay.  We just followed our friend, Pasang Lama, to his old classmate’s place.

At first Kancha Sherpa impressed me because he is the last surviving member of the 1953 Hillary-Norgay summit of Everest.  (Around the Khumbu, you can’t swing a cat without a statue or reference to Sir Edmund Hillary and THE expedition that started it all.) Kancha waited with one other guy on the South Summit, just out of view of the tippy-top, for the two headliners to return.

At 85 years old, he is a bit of a local legend.  We gathered around the dining room’s “chimney” to warm up with some story time from grandfather.  The kids were into it.  This was road schooling at its best: learning from the source something that cannot be taught in a classroom.

Namche Bazaar, Kancha Sherpa, Everest

Namche Bazaar in 2017.

When Kancha was a child, there were just six houses in Namche and they would all band together, for fear of bears, to walk down to the stream for water.  When asked what other animals were plentiful back then, he said the yeti.  A “yeti” is like a extra-hairy big foot and many people in the Khumbu know someone who has seen one or been attacked by one.  Down in Kathmandu the yeti is more of a mascot – the symbol of airlines and silly tourist T-shirts.  But up high, he’s more real. There is even a yeti scalp you can see at a local monastery (for a fee).

yeti, Kancha Sherpa, Namche,

police sketch of a mischief-making yeti

As a young man Kancha Sherpa ran away from home to Darjeeling, India, in search of  work and an adventure.  Once in India, Kancha found his old Khumbu friend Tenzing Norgay, who hooked him up with a temporary job and eventually got him named on the Hillary Expedition.  The expedition walked with their gear from India, across Nepal and up toward Everest Base Camp – nothing like today’s quick flight to Lukla followed by a seven day walk.

His first impression of Hillary was: TALL, very tall.  But mostly, people revere Hillary because he never forgot the Sherpa people and spent the rest of his life as an ambassador of Nepal and, more specifically, the Sherpa ethnic group.  He funded the first school in the area, the hospital, most major building projects and more. (By the way, “Sherpa” refers to an ethnic group, not people who carry bags.  Those people prefer to be called “porters”.)

Kancha Sherpa, Namche, Everest, Hillary Expedition

Lorna with Kancha Sherpa

The girls and I stayed in a triple room up on the third floor of Nirvana and I thought we were the only ones staying up there… until the blowing of the conch shell down the hall on the first morning.  Then there was a drum.  Then there was someone pacing the floor with a mumble.  As I put my ear to the door, it was a low, “om mani padme om.”  I cracked my door to see him shuffle along counting his prayers on his prayer beads.  Over the five nights we stayed there, he did this ritual each morning and each evening.  He walked in a sacred circle around the town each day, praying for the freedom from suffering for all sentient beings.  Kancha showed the kids and I his prayer room, let us try out the drum and admire the letters from the Queen of England and the Nepali dignataries that were pinned to his wall.  Above and below the royal letters were the many photos of his wife, and some of his kids.  His daily routine included special prayers for his wife who passed just two years before.  He prayed for her safety and welcome in the spiritual realm.  He daily changed the water of seventeen bowls as an offering.  He had a tall daily to-do list and it was all truly for others.

Soon, he will spend the cold months with his son in Kathmandu and I wondered that he could still make the walk.  But no, he just tells the helicopter companies that he needs a lift and they get him the next free seat heading down.  His reputation (or all the good karma?) has earned him a VIP frequent flyer status.  Sometimes logistics can be that simple.

Kancha Sherpa, Namche Bazaar, Everest

One of the posters in the Nirvana Home Guesthouse

Just meeting a human, like Kancha Sherpa with one humble foot in the past and a mind so focused on the spiritual future, I was just as “roadschooled” as my kids.  The elderly here have a purpose – not a token value – but a true purpose.  They have the time and inclination to slow down and pray for us all, to remind us what it is all about from the perspective of age.

We loved our de facto homestays with Pasang’s grandparents.  First, in Thumbuk and then later in Khumjung.  We spent a total of ten days between the two villages with loads of trekking in between.  The kids voted Thumbuk the most peaceful.  Most exciting and Peace Corps-esque were the squat toilets, bucket showers and hand laundry.  Laundry, and getting it dry in the monsoon, was a group endeavor.

Sherpa doormats

The ingenious door mat is fragrant, compostable and locally made.

Sherpa homes have some distinctive qualities: colorful window frames, potato fields and blue or green roofs.  Some of my favorite touches were the gray cats curled up on the earthen stoves, the fantastic meals cooked from the simplest kitchens, the hired monks to bless the fresh-monthly prayer flags, the daily incense, the fragrant door mats but the absolute tell-tale sign is the tall Sherpa flags in the front yards.

Sherpa home

View down the valley from the front door. The defining Sherpa flag pole out front and the detached bathroom.

Pasang’s father’s family lived in Thumbuk which is a small village with a gompa, monastery and a small K-4 school.  There is no wifi, no road, nor store to buy staples, but they do have wild pepper tress, pines and herb gardens making any walk through the village an aromatic adventure.  The 2015 earthquake caused significant damage here and our adoptive grandparents in Thumbuk spent a year living under a tarp and wood shed until their house could be rebuilt.

travel with kids Nepal

Our cozy upstairs quarters.

Most meals are farm-to-table at their finest.  We helped grandmother dig some potatoes and had them boiled up with chili-pepper sauce for dinner.  Garlic chives, cilantro and wild pepper season just about every meal. (These local peppers are a mix of our black pepper and spicy pepper and more than a quarter teaspoon with make your mouth totally numb for about five minutes.  Will and I were slightly obsessed and urged each other on with the pepper sauce.)  The whole wheat flour is grown locally, milled locally, and helped make our chapatis, momo’s and dumplings for Sherpa stew.  Bring on the gluten!

Sherpa travel with kids

Chimi, the cat, always staying warm by the stove.

All this time without connectivity, mirrors, stores or roads is some of what Will and I were hoping from this gift of a year away.  The daily simplicity of our Sherpa home is what so many Americans crave.  There’s an excuse to be unresponsive on email and the only to-do list is taking care of what’s important: food, family, friends and maintaining health.

Written by Lorna Paradise

Twelve years old

Kathmandu,  Nepal

August 13, 2017

Nepal has been awesome so far! The people, the food, the architecture – I love it all.

 Some very unique un-Boulder-like things have been…

  • Homeless cows wandering the streets relying on humans for 1) food, 2) kindness, 3) not getting hit by cars.
  • Stray dogs. I guess stray dogs are not unique of Asia, but they are un-Boulder-like! They are new to me. Boulder has enough humane societies and dog-loving people to keep homeless dogs off the streets.swyambunath, nepal, family travel
  • Monkeys EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!!! Eating bananas, fighting over oats, jumping from holy statue to other holy  statue, steeling unsuspecting people’s lunches. I could go on and on.monkeys, swyambunath, nepal, family travel
  • No-rules traffic.
  • Air quality bad enough that you have to wear a mask to prevent breathing in mischievous exhaust particles.  They look like surgical masks and everyone wears them.  It looks funny with the saris.
  • Kumari: a girl who is chosen by monks to be a ‘living goddess’ for a certain period of time. This girl is unable to leave the house where the  Kumari lives except for during festivals. Modern day Kumaris are educated, unlike olden day Kumaris. It used to be that after a Kumari was no longer a Kumari, she was not allowed to go to school or get married. There are many rules when you are Kumari, and if you break those rules you are replaced. Kumari is said to be a reincarnation of the goddess Kumari.  She looks out her window every hour for three seconds.  She is not allowed to smile and she has lots of make up and lots of jewelry.
  • Chai all day every day. In Boulder we had chai (of course!) but not like here. You wake up in the morning and you’re greeted with a hot cup of chai. You come to lunch, you are offered chai. You are told there is popcorn upstairs, and you are offered chai along with your popcorn.
  • There are roof-level terraces on every house with railings around the edge and it’s my favorite place in the house.

    viola, Kathmandu rooftops

    Lorna practicing her viola on the rooftop terrace

  • Boudhanath stupa. The largest stupa in the world. VERY SACRED!!!

    bouda, boudhanath stupa, nepal, family travel

    Boudhanath Stupa!

 

I have loved Nepal so far and I know I will continue to!!

-Lorna

I cannot believe we left San Francisco just one week ago today!  It feels like we have been gone for so much longer.  Boulder feels very far away.

Yesterday we were walking through Durbar Square in Kathmandu with Pasang and her father (also named Pasang) when Kai said, “Mom, I want to go home now.” Gulp.  I thought to myself that it’s going to be a long time before we head home.  Like 51 weeks longer.

“Which home, Kai?”

“Our Kathmandu home, mom.  I want to go back and play soccer with Kelsang on the roof.” Phew!

nepal, roadschooling, family travel

And so we soon did go home to our very comfortable, quiet home with our extended Sherpa – Nepali family.  By “family” I mean that Pasang (jr.) has been living with us for more than a year and a half in Boulder and we all consider her a member of our family.  So here, by extension, we are being met as family in this wonderful Sherpa home.  Pasang’s younger brother, Kelsang, was quickly idolized by Kai who got to watch Kelsang’s six scoring goals at a soccer game.  We are living like travelers, not tourists.

Kathmandu feels so different from the last time I was here seventeen years ago.  That was before the earthquake, selfie sticks, pollution masks and cell phones.  I notice many more cars, therefore traffic, on the road.  Many more women are wearing Western clothing rather than the traditional.  In addition to the increased road traffic, there’s lots of construction happening around the city which exacerbates the air quality.

nepal, family travel

Hmmm. This electrical grid seems a bit overloaded.

There’s also an organic farmer’s market happening each Saturday, a morning Vinyasa yoga class a block away and (much to Pasang’s delight) a New York style bagel shop.

Our days here have been dictated a lot by the weather.  It’s monsoon now and we try to homeschool a bit each day and zip out to see some sights when there’s a break in the weather.  Our first day, we went to Boudanath Stupa, then got caught in a downpour, followed by a muddy rush hour traffic.  With no lane lines or stop lights, it’s a cross between a rugby scrum and a game of chicken.  Experiences like that make you believe there’s a God.  Cars were so close to us that Will said he could button the cuffs of the drivers in the other cars.  As chaotic as it is, we didn’t see any accidents.  American temperament in that situation would result in a lot of crashes.  Kai said something like, “who needs an amusement park, when you can just do this?”  Indeed the fear / thrill of that jam was just as exciting as a roller coaster.  But it’s real.

Bouddhanath Stupa, road schooling family travel

Bouddhanath Stupa

First observations by the kids:

Lucy: Why are some countries so rich and others so poor, Mommy?

Lorna: I know I lived here in a past life…. (said wistfully from the balcony)

Kai: Mom, there’s a cow on the sidewalk.  Can I pet it?

We have had versions of this trip planned for years and bought our one-way tickets to Kathmandu six months ago.  But about 10 days before we left, Will got a text that our eight hour layover in Singapore was now actually two and half days.  Huh?

I’m so glad it worked out that way!  The sixteen and a half hour flight from SFO to Singapore was relatively easy and we all slept ok in our coach seats, but rolling into our Singapore hotel that night to sleep was lovely.

Up at 4am on our first day, we got out early and searched out some fresh roti, curry and steamed red bean buns recommended in a googled article on hidden street food.  Kids were loving it and there were no tourists around.  When Kai tipped the whole plate of curry on his brand new traveling shirt, many locals came to the aid with tissues and smiles.

singapore, street food, roti

Roti with curry, milo, and steamed buns coming!

The object for the rest of the day was to stay awake and get some exercise.  So we headed across a causeway to Sentosa Island for kid-friendly fun.  It’s a cross between “Spirited Away” and Orlando, Florida on jet lag. Everywhere you looked was a semi-empty resort that requires a ticket or wristband.  There is a Universal Studios, zip line park and water park, but we ended up in a smaller section that required a “fun pass” and a map that was crazy-hard to reckon. (Or maybe it was the jet lag.)  We loved the butterfly pavilion, Madame Tussaud’s, Singapore Live! (an educational live show that traces Singapore’s history) and a 4D experience (Disneyland-style) of which we were the only people in the room.

Sentosa Island, Madame Tussaud's

Kai with the Chinese President and first lady at Madame Tussaud’s, Sentosa Island

Then we took a bus to the skywalk and my kids insisted on walking up the nine floors instead of taking the elevator.  Nine stories up, the crazy amusement park faded away, the surreal fatigue began to clear and I felt like I was actually in Singapore.  The city is mixture of jungle canopy, shipping containers and ultra sleek skyscrapers.  The architecture is the most futuristic I’ve ever seen – pools on top of hotels, 50th floor connecting walkways – while still feeling like you’re in the jungle with orchid-filled trees along the expressways and living walls of greenery both inside and outside of buildings.

Skywalk, Sentosa Island

Sentosa Island Skywalk

Next stop was Chinatown for vegetarian food and a foot massage, before heading back to the airport hotel pool and asleep by 7:30pm. Chipping away at jet lag bit by bit.

Singapore, Chinatown, roadshcooling, Family Travel

Lorna getting her foot massage in China town. Lucy is next to her giggling.

The last half-day was all about the Singapore Botanical Garden, possibly the most beautiful place I’ve ever been.  Monitor lizards, every variety of orchid on the planet and three story-tall palm trees.

Singapore Botanical Gardens

Singapore Botanical Gardens

Random facts learned from taxi drivers:

  • Every male Singaporean has two mandatory years of military service, followed by ten years in active reserves requiring refresher courses and a fitness test. If someone failed the fitness test, they would be required to attend evening classes until the could pass.
  • It’s a Buddhist / Christian country surrounded by Muslim Indonesia and Malaysia.
  • They got independence from England in 1965.  And with no natural resources, they went from being a third world country to one of the four strongest Asian economies in 50 years.
  • The first priority for the new leadership after independence was to build the best airport in the world and a tax-free shipping port to attract trade and travel, and capitalize on their unique geographical position.  I guess it worked.

I’m not sure how we could have achieved liftoff for our year of family adventure without our short stint in Half Moon Bay.  The kids flew “unaccompanied” to San Francisco to stay with the grandparents and do their first camp of the summer.  This gave us four full days alone to get packed up and out of Boulder. There is no way we could have done this with kids around.  Thank you Gima and Poppa!Lazy H Ranch, Half Moon Bay, road schooling, family travel

When we arrived, all three kids were happily enjoying their own day camps and this special slice of the California coast.  Lorna was in a sailing camp, Lucy in a horse camp and Kai in a flag football camp.  After Will and I arrived, we had a moment to walk on the beach, repack, eat good food, repack, catch up with family and friends, and repack again.  Even though there is less stuff, there’s still the task of keeping the stuff organized and the weight of the luggage equally distributed.

My sister Daisy, her husband Tim and daughter Charlie also came down from Tahoe to say farewell.   Daisy Barnett, Sarah Tinsley, Gary and Carol stopped in to say hello/goodbye.  We checked and rechecked our lists while trying to convince everyone to come visit.

Val fed us well and somehow it feels better when you’re doing something big to touch in with your parents.  Their excitement and encouragement makes it all seem less intense.  But after a while, we were all done talking about it.  It’s just time to go!  So off we went for sixteen and half hours in coach…

And we’re off!  Well, baby steps – just to California. But we’re out of Colorado!  The past weeks have been ramping up to craziness.  We sold two cars, delivered two pets to loving homes, squared away a record store with new managers, packed up a big house, rearranged furniture for renters, canceled memberships, organized roadschool supplies, and somehow got out the door.

I didn’t realize how stressed I was to put all three kids unaccompanied on one plane five days ago, until they landed safely into grandparents’ care in San Francisco.  I could finally exhale.  And with all that nervous energy, we had already packed up Lucy and Kai’s rooms before we got the text that they landed.

We packed up a life in about five days.  We had said goodbyes over and over since school was out in June.  We had lots of small goodbyes but no parties.  This is a trip, not a move.  But it’s a long trip.  And we have lots of deep roots here.  George Clements came with a furniture dolly and two young boys to help with furniture. Elizabeth and Tenzin took us to the airport and helped with the final moments of just throwing stuff into a box.  Jean, our favorite neighbor, is our backup for everything and our local grandmother.  Sophie and Jason loaned us a car while they were on vacation.  Kim took our 13 year-old pug with loving arms and Kate and Brian welcomed Hopper, the tortilla chip-loving bunny, into her home.  Lots of close friends came by for a hug and helped us empty the cupboards.  We are so lucky to call North Boulder home!

Today, I wore my fitbit and walked 3.9 miles and climbed countless flights of stairs finishing things up within my own house!  May my garage be this clutter-free again one day.  Packing is a workout. I know there are some things I forgot and luckily there are friends who have offered over and over to do anything to help.  And aside from a passport, size nine women’s shoes and a credit card, there’s not much that cannot be purchased in Asia.

The grind of the last two weeks is somehow overshadowing the fact that we are really doing this!!!!  Maybe tomorrow it will all sink in.

Following the post that lists all the reasons NOT to go, here is the list of all the reasons that, of course, we should go on our year-long adventure.

So here is our “Big Trip” mission statement:

  1. FUN. Probably not every moment, but as a whole, we expect to have fun.
  2. Show, don’t tell, the kids that they are in the 1% of this world. They are lucky and not entitled to the endless luxuries that they will expect as they venture out into the world. I don’t want to lecture my kids about how privileged they are, leaving them to grapple with an abstract concept of gratitude.
  3. Seize time together as a family before their peers overshadow our influence.
  4. Experiential learning is unparalleled because it sticks.
  5. We can’t surf in Boulder.
  6. It’s a great excuse to declutter the house.

For one year, we will be untethered. Today’s to-do list today is crazy long because my to-do list next year will be hopefully blank. (Am I kidding myself?) Is it possible to get back to the non-existent to-do list of my twenties?  In my mind, we will be living spontaneously moment after moment without the tedium of dentist’s visits, music lessons with the swim schedules.  I picture that we will unplug from this scheduled life, but I wonder if it’s possible anywhere.. anymore.  I want to have a different relationship to time, stretch it out, enjoy it rather than feel the tick-tock.